Trailer Happiness
It has been over six years since Jonathan Downey first entered the bar world. At the time in London there was nowhere to go to get a decent drink in a relaxed bar environment. You either had to be a member of somewhere like the Groucho, go to a sterile hotel bar, or get past some idiot in charge of a red dope, he claims. So what could he do differently to improve the state of the industry? Downey set about revolutionising the stage of drinking in London aiming to produce a string of venues based on the atmosphere of a Manchester bar with New York style drinks.
Fast forward to the present, and Downey has established some of the city’s most noteworthy establishments. Match Bar came first, with operations in Clerkenwell, the West end and Shoreditch now firmly established. We set up the concept to be more than one site explains Downey, but I think we underestimated how successful we would be. In fact, when the company were opening their second venture, Downey was still working full time in the city (he was a lawyer in his previous life). I realised that I was spending too much time on my own thing and nor enough time in the office, so I gave up being a lawyer and concentrated on the bar business. At this point in the progression, he admits that he was playing a game of chance; “We had not strategy or game plan, we just stumbled along really. Expansion has been opportunistic.”
Developing the Match Bar Group, Downey then turned his attention towards the private members genre. Again, progression was opportunistic. The Player went out of business, and I’d always really loved it, so it seemed logical to set about reopening it. Then the Milk & Honey site becomes available. After seeing the operation in New York, I felt it would be perfect for London, he enthuses.
Trailer Happiness is the latest scheme from Downey. Previously trading as Canvas, once more, fortune played its part in making a desirable location available. The basement bar takes Tiki as its inspiration, and the décor has been modelled accordingly. With design by Odd, eclectic object dart adorn the walls, and create obvious points of interest. But that is not where the heart of this operation lies. The one thing we have always been best at is drinks states Downey clearly. Our venues have never been about interior design, they have never been about celebrity connection or big named djs, its all been about the drinks.
What makes Trailer Happiness exceptional is the lengths that Downey has gone to make it as authentic as possible. I wanted to explore another element of drinking culture that hasn’t been done properly on the UK. I think we did that with Milk and Honey. We went back to the 1920s and 30s and really went into the ideas of the speakeasy, and the classics. I had no intention of doing Tiki drinks when I first took over this site, but it lent itself so well to that kitsch Americana vibe. That whole era of optimism and exotica, and after I started researching it, it all came together.
A whole host of expertise has been harnessed to ensure the Trailer Happiness lives up to Downey’s demands for perfection. Dale DeGroff (director of drinks for the Match Bar Group) had just discovered that Don Beech’s wife has just printed a book of his recipes that were closely guarded secrets for over 75 years. He discovered the original recipe for the Zombie, and we put it on the list, he says. At the same time I was swapping emails with Angus Winchester of IP Bartenders on the subject of Tikis drinks, and he brought some other influential books to my attention. Then there were Soulshakers, Michael Butt and Giles Looker, both ex-Match bartenders. They were really enthused in the subject continues Downey, as was Pete Kendall, formerly of Milk and Honey. Whose help we also enlisted. The end result? It was dead easy in the end to come up with a lost of 12 great drinks, and know how to serve them perfectly, with so many experts being involved.
The importance of drinks and the high standards executed behind the bar bind Downeys portfolio of operations together. There is a dirth of new talent, and we have retained a core of really exceptional bartenders. The secret? We have been producing great bartenders for years, and that is thanks to working with guys like Dick Bradsell, Dale DeGroff, and Taste and Flavour. If you are serious about being a bartender, where else are you gong to go? You are not only going to work with the world’s greatest living bartender, Dale DeGroff, but you are also going to be working with a team of bartenders who are among the best currently working behind bars. Downey prides himself on the excellent training that his staff receive, and feels that this contributes greatly to the success of his venues: This may be a little overambitious, but I always like to think that if you want to be a bartender, having us on your CV is like being a chef and having The Ivy on your CV. People know you have had a good, all-round education and that you have a real understanding of what it takes to make a bar work.
Not only does Downey pride himself on the standard of his staff, but his high standards are also represented by what brands his establishments stock. I think most owners aren’t’ concerned about what they stock behind their bar, and it shows. It shows in their drinks, in their lack of loyal customers and their longevity. There are certain products we have not stocked and will not stock, no matter how much money is offered to us. Nothing goes on the back bar without my approval. There are some shocking products on the market and we really don’t need it.
So what does the future hold in store for the Match Bar Group? It seems there will be more of a strategy employed than ever before: The next three years are all about expanding with a plan, less haphazardly than before. We are going to do three more Match-bar like venues. I still want to do an operation abroad; the French Alps is currently favourite. I am also planning to expand the members side of things. We are very close to doing a deal on the third members bar site in Soho with a 3am licence. A two-floor site, it will be small and intimate and hopefully we will be announcing it before Christmas.
Downey is also realistic about what he can achieve: I would love to do something in Los Angeles, or maybe something in Havana. But it is important not to get carried away with the seductiveness of opening a bar somewhere. Ultimately, it has to make commercial sense. With such dedication to exceptional standards, it is clear that Downey has definite ideas on what does and doesn’t work, So far, he is a little frustrated by what others have to offer. Asked what excites him in the industry, he replies absolutely nobody. It’s embarrassing. Everything is derivative, nothing is original. They are all still doing the stuff that was done at the Met bar, basically shaking vodka with fruit. I mean at Trailer Happiness and at La Beauvallon (Downey took his Match bar magic to St Tropez this summer) we produced a homage menu, where we listed the best drinks from great bartenders around the world. There were two drinks on there from UK bartenders: Salvatore Calabrese’s Breakfast Martini and a drink from IP Bartenders. He concludes: I used to get bar envy on a regular basis, but the last time I had it was over two years ago. I just don’t get it anymore.
So what is needed? A bit more invention and some fresh blood offers Downey. I think there needs a whole bunch of new people to come into the industry. With one or two exceptions, we have very little competition. The mentality is all design led, trophy bar focused, busy for six months. It needs a new generation to come n and do something different. It needs more women involved in the industry too.
The success of Downey’s business is his focus, a factor at times that has proven problematic: “I wish I had not been a pioneer, but an early settler, because they get all the benefit without the pain, getting killed by the native.” But the importance of his actions are obvious. Downey and his army of bartenders have taken drinks making the UK to new levels, and he had no signs of slowing down. By harnessing and encouraging their skills and enthusiasm, and by constantly seeking out industry experts to keep their thirst for knowledge whetted, he easily gives his competitors and his customers a reason to return.
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01/12/2003 published by Theme Tags: Commercial Interiors

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